Which Canon Cameras Have Micro Focus

This commodity contains several different methods for AF aligning

Note… Y'all can use the Moire fringe technique to check any (digital) camera AF system for back or front focus.

Cameras with micro-aligning (or AF fine tuning) currently include:

Canon 1D X, 1DIII, 1DIV, 1DsMkIII, 5DII, 5D3, 5Ds(R), 50D, 7D, 7D mk2, Nikon D3, D3x, D4, D5, D300, D500, D700, D800 Sony A900, Pentax K20 (note that the EOS 60D does not include this feature) The EOS 1D 10 / 5D3 / 5Ds /5D4 now allows separate AF Microadjustment for both the wide angle and the telephoto settings of a zoom lens.

Sometimes, dissimilar lenses might consistently non focus perfectly (front or dorsum focus). This can now be adapted for private lenses. Some cameras even allow for multiple copies of the same lens to be individually adapted.

We've got a downloadable lens calibration chart to make this process easier. The lens calibration target is easy to gear up upwards and use with an LCD monitor.

• If you're looking for specific hardware to help with the procedure, we take a review of the SpyderLensCal
• For software that helps automate the AF aligning procedure run across our Reikan FoCal V2 review

AF Microadjustment – back/forepart focus

Information technology's important to realise that any arrangement of parts with private tolerances can exhibit significant variance if the assorted 'errors' all stack upwards in one direction (they can merely abolish out besides). This is a key element of engineering design for manufacturing.

Whilst expensive lenses and an expensive camera should 'just work' there may exist room for comeback.

• Notation – I'm using the 1Ds3 every bit an case hither – this process works with whatsoever camera that has some fashion of fine tuning the AF performance, and a 'live view' mode.

Previously you could get Canon to calibrate your lenses and bodies for y'all, but this entailed sending the camera off for the work.

The 1D Marking iii and 1Ds Mark 3 both let customisation of the AF settings, although you lot should note that if yous try a whole lot of lenses and they all crave a considerable adjustment, then it may be that your camera torso needs fixing.

The adjustment is in the Custom functions menus (C.Fn Iii-vii AF Microadjustment).

A setting of 0 will clear all AF aligning information, 1 will enable the global aligning, while 2 will set individual lenses.

If all lenses front or back focus a little then yous tin use a global adjustment.

How to check focus accurateness

Canon have a 1D /1Ds3 'Optimising Camera settings' document [PDF](German translation [PDF]) available which has some useful background info on many of the adjustments and settings you can brand to these two cameras.

I was sent details of an first-class postal service on OPF by Bart van der Wolf, roofing his apply of a fine graphics design on an LCD screen.

I've -part- of the autofocus examination image I've been using at the right.

The large paradigm plays tricks with your visual system, then be wary of this if you accept any difficulties caused past repetitive patterns.

• Download (zip file) a 1000×1000 pixels square version.
  It volition expand into a chiliad×m GIF file
  Delight don't link to this file – the filename volition change ;-)

AF Microadjustment procedures

The principle is that you display the square GIF epitome (at 100% total size) and focus on the computer screen, using liveview (zoomed if need exist) and maximise the appearance of Moire interference patterns. Do not brand the epitome 'fit' your computer screen, it needs to be unscaled.

Y'all will need to have the camera mounted on a tripod and direct facing the estimator screen. Have some intendance to get the screen square on and lined up with the photographic camera.

• If you lot want to be really authentic with lining things upwardly, put a small mirror upward, flat against your screen (or target). When the camera is proerly square on to the screen, and then the reflection of your lens volition be visible right in the middle of your viewfinder.

The interference patterns come almost from the interaction betwixt the image pixels on your screen and the pixels of your sensor. They may non expect exactly the same as in the examples below, but you should observe a singled-out top in the amount of detail visible – that is the focus bespeak.

• Note – this won't piece of work with a impress of the image! You need a screen view

You so switch off liveview and part press the shutter button to activate AF.

Look carefully at the lens distance indicator as you practise this … if the lens and camera combination is spot on, then there will will be no movement of the lens focusing ring and the paradigm will not change.

I tried this firstly with my 24-70, fix at 70mm (Canon suggest setting zooms at their longest setting)

… no movement of the lens ring at all. The lens is spot on. Reactivating liveview showed the patterns I'd seen after manually focusing. There could be a slight difference since the interference technique is very sensitive. If yous are non sure, then attempt the exam over again with an adjustment of + or – 1. you should run into a difference.

Side by side I moved the camera closer to the screen, making sure information technology was properly 'square on' to the centre of the pattern. I fitted my EF14mm 2.8L 2 lens

Notation – Photographic camera-to-subject distance should ideally be no less than l times the focal length of the lens. For a 50mm lens, that would be at least two.v meters (25m for a 500mm)

It's hard to show graphics here, but the showtime prototype gives an idea of the rear display when manually focused with liveview, while the second shows the view after getting the camera to autofocus (where an adjustment is needed).

I've exaggerated the difference slightly for showing here.

It's really only a few centimetres difference in focal distance, only the interference effect allows you to get critically abrupt focus.

I noticed some patterns in a quick check with a CRT (if this works fine – please let me know?), but I'd prefer a LCD (a laptop is useful for testing longer lenses). My 23″ Apple tree Movie theatre display shows patterns much better with my Canon 1Ds3 than my xv″ MacBook Pro with its higher resolution (pixels per inch) screen.

• If you are having difficulty with longer lenses, I'g told that a laptop exterior at night works quite well.
• With higher resolution screens, such as 'retina' displays, temporarily reduce your screen resolution to a lower value such as 1920×1080. This can make the moire easier to see

The verbal pattern yous encounter when sharply focused, depends on your LCD screen and its pixels, since information technology'southward the interference betwixt the screen version of the image (and its individual pixels) and the pixels of your sensor that result in the aliasing. Information technology was different with each lens and at unlike distances.

The effect should be very obvious to see – yous are looking for a height in the pattern's visibility, not any particular amount of pattern.

After a quick test, the following settings were altered

• EF14mm 2.8L Two – a setting of +viii (backward)
• EF15mm 2.8 (fisheye) – no correction required
• EF16-35 two.8L @35mm – a setting of +five (backward)
• EF24-70 2.8L @70mm – no correction required
• EF70-200 2.8L @200mm – no correction required

It's worth testing your lenses in different conditions and trying a few 'real world' photos besides. I'd not fifty-fifty noticed the fault on the 14mm and a few quick test shots at f/ii.8 testify a just perceptible increase in sharpness.

Of import reminder

Do call up that all AF systems accept a degree of tolerance in them, so don't become carried away spending hours chasing 'perfect' focusing. You are adjusting a camera, non edifice a infinite telescope!

AF microadjustment is not the 'cheap fix' for improving their photography that some would like to think. Equally a working professional photographer, I did information technology one time when writing this page, in one case when testing the SpyderLensCal and one time when I got a replacement for my old 24-70 (-2 adj. required)

I repeated each measurement several times only to exist sure information technology was real and non a 'glitch' in the AF.

If you detect yourself wishing at that place was a finer gradation of adjustment than offered, I'd seriously suggest catastrophe the process and going out to take some photos :-)

Alternative AF setting technique using the Moire technique

An culling way of testing is to always start with your lens set at infinity.

• You line up the target and activate AF.
• Then turn off AF and activate liveview.
• You should see some class of Moire pattern.
• Turn the focus band to a slightly closer distance – does this initially make the blueprint more obvious?
• If then and so you lot have an element of backfocusing.
• If it makes the pattern less obvious then y'all accept front end focusing (if any motility of the focus ring makes things worse, then smiling to yourself, since the AF for that lens is already spot on :-)
• Conform the AF setting to compensate (positive numbers on my 1Ds3 for back focus). Repeat the process until whatever movement of the focus ring lessens the visibility of the Moire.
• The amount of movement required may be very small with some lenses

I've seen it suggested that by starting at infinity and letting the AF work at the start, you are getting more consistent results.

• Some people have contacted me afterwards finding that they couldn't become the moire method to piece of work with their screen. It seems that very loftier resolution LCD screens present the prototype a bit too pocket-sized. A target based approach might be of assistance if y'all're having problems – take shots at +20,i,0,-10,-20 and just look at them, run across the SpyderLensCal review for a more full general discussion – not just based on that device (a sail of graph paper can work, with care).

AF bank check on cameras without liveview/AF adjustment

If you want to try this with a photographic camera without liveview and then merely shoot a moving-picture show of the screen using AF and and then ii more with the focus ring manually moved +/- 5cm. Hopefully the AF version should show some fringing not visible in the other two shots.

If all your lenses testify a slight shift then information technology -might- be worth getting your camera serviced?

Some Examples showing what you might see

Here are ii examples taken with the 1Ds Mk3 and 16-35 2.8L (mk1) @f/2.8 and 35mm

The first picture shows right AF

• Note that these two images are intended to give an thought of the outcome yous are looking for, non the testing methodology (you can use the LCD screen and Liveview)

One additional feature of this method is that if you don't accept the camera square to the screen (i.eastward. sensor parallel to the screen), you will go noticeable asymmetry in the blueprint. The screen above shows that the bottom left corner of the screen is slightly closer (or further away) than the meridian right corner. This method is very sensitive in this respect (much more and then than you lot could get by simply looking at a shot for focus errors)

The second motion-picture show below, was manually set to forepart focus by at least 10cm. This is quite a bit, but I've done it to show the effect you are looking for. I've as well taken the photo from closer than you might employ for a real test.

Both of these shots were shot tethered and the images you come across to a higher place are screenshots of the 'Quick Preview' from EOS utility.

I did this then that I could employ an un-resampled paradigm, since whatever resampling of the prototype can innovate new moire (these effects are non like shooting fish in a barrel to show here!).

Remember too, that both images show some asymmetry in the patterns which indicates that I've not got the camera fully square on to the screen.

It just works!

Thanks to all the people who've written in with questions, and refinements to the technique. I'll be sure to go along the page updated if any new techniques or tips come in.

I've heard examples of people finding that their 'average' lens fabricated into the 'sharp' category after trying this ;-)

Canon's suggested Micro Focus Adjustment

This is Catechism's suggested technique – I cover much more about using similar techniques in my review of the SpyderLensCal device.

• Mount the camera on a proficient tripod.
• Set up a target for the camera to focus on. The reference target should take sufficient contrast for the AF system to detect. It should be flat and parallel to the camera'due south focal plane, and centred.
• Lighting should be bright / even.
• Camera-to-bailiwick distance should exist no less than 50 times the focal length of the lens. For a 50mm lens, that would be at least 2.v meters.
• Set up the lens for AF and the camera for One-Shot AF, and manually select the eye focusing bespeak.
• Shoot at the maximum discontinuity of the lens via manual mode or aperture-priority. Adjust exposure level to get an accurate exposure. Utilize low ISO setting.
• If the lens has an image stabilizer, turn information technology off.
• Use a remote switch or the camera's self-timer to fire the shutter. Apply mirror lock upwards as well.
• Have three sets of images at microadjustment settings of -five, 0 and +v, i.due east, three consecutive images at -5, iii sequent images at 0, and three consecutive images at +5.
• Look at the images on your screen at 100% magnification.
• Take additional sets of test images at different microadjustment settings if necessary until the sharpest image is achieved.
• Register the corresponding microadjustment settings in the camera.

Thorough, only slower… ;-)

AF Adjustment notes from Canon
For best results, manually set the focus on the lens to infinity for every exposure before assuasive the photographic camera to autofocus the reference target.Expect some pocket-size variations in focusing accuracy within each fix of three exam images, even though they were all taken at the aforementioned microadjustment setting. This is completely normal, and is due to the tolerances of the camera's AF system.Expect smaller microadjustment settings to have a greater effect with telephoto lenses, and vice versa for wide-angle lenses.

If y'all are attempting to gear up microadjustments for a zoom lens, information technology is of import to realize that the photographic camera'south setting may only be accurate for the focal length setting you test. The instruction book suggests testing at the longest focal length of the lens, but y'all may discover it more efficient to choose the focal length you use nigh frequently.

Alternative Catechism Liveview based focusing method

This is from a suggestion on the Birdphotographers listing by Arash Hazeghi

Make certain you lot accept the latest version of the Catechism EOS utility installed. You need to point the photographic camera at a fine detail target, ideally at least 50 times the focal length abroad

• If you discover that information technology is very difficult to achieve a precise sharp focus (particularly with slower lenses) you lot can lower the 50x distance limit somewhat, however I'd personally not go much closer than 30x. You can run into just how piddling change there is during the focus stepping in my SpyderLensCal review.

Brand certain that the camera is square on to the target, and that the target is sufficiently flat. Something like a bank note normally has a lot of fine detail, if yous don't have a convenient ISO nautical chart bachelor.

Connect the camera to your computer via the USB port, abolish whatever image download pop-up/awarding

1. Run the EOS utility.
2. Click on Photographic camera setting/remote shooting icon.
3. Click on Remote Live View Shooting. This will open a new window with alive sensor video feed.
4. Make sure that AF is in phase detect mode (quick manner AF). This uses the camera'due south main AF sensor.
5. Choose the center AF point and make sure the white rectangle is centred on the AF point. The AF points blueprint volition be different for dissimilar cameras.
6. Click on the magnifying icon for a total size view.
7. Click the AF ( ON ) button in the focus section of the controls. The camera volition now autofocus on the target.
8. Click on the 200% magnification checkbox. The view on the screen is now at two:one magnification. Note that it is essential that your tripod is placed on a solid surface, since anyone walking round will easily produce vibrations yous can see.
9. Now click on the ( > ) or( < ) buttons to shift focus backwards or forwards ane click at a time until image appears at its sharpest on the screen. When doing this, notice the dissimilarity at edges, you want them as crisp as possible. Record how many clicks you take moved relative to the heart (note that the infinity symbol indicates the 'far' direction)
10. Repeat this a few times until the results are consistent (remember that there is always some slight variation in autofocus)
11. Each click on the ( > ) or ( < ) buttons corresponds to i unit in the AF micro adjust scale in the photographic camera.
12. Undo LV by clicking close in the Zoom View and Remote Alive View Windows.
13. Go to microadjust (MA) menu pick in your camera and set up the amount of aligning (for this lens) to the exact value recorded, noting the back or front management.
14. Become back to footstep iii and perform AF again. If the epitome is already as sharp as possible when you click 200% you have sucessfully prepare an adjustment value. If still not right so go through this procedure until you tin consistently get the sharpest paradigm. Yous can shoot test images and transfer directly to your computer.

Some notes – I've not tried this item method yet. If anyone finds information technology particularly useful, or has any suggestions to get in meliorate, so please practise let me know?

If you've come directly to this method, do read some of the caveats in the notes from Canon just above this department.

Still more…

Some more experimental techniques I've come beyond:

• Liveview based with single AF step
• Version of to a higher place with Nikon D800

And then, how skillful is AF?

Possibly better than you'd thought, but for anyone really getting into checking the minutiae of AF performance, I'd suggest reading this commodity.

In particular carry it in mind when you wait at people's sample images. I've never been a 'detail' person, simply I know enough about measuring the performance of optical systems to e'er accept peoples' reports of lens quality (without a detailed description of their methodologies) with a pinch of common salt ;-)

Of form, if you had a camera that incorporates both Phase Detect and Contrast Detect AF, then you could just bespeak information technology at a target and it would self calibrate the AF.

Concrete Measurement devices

There are other approaches to the moire ane above that I employ. All the same I'd suggest y'all effort a 'free' technique kickoff…

Datacolor produce device to make the process easier – we have a full review of the SpyderLensCal.

The review also has a more than general discussion about using targets for focus aligning.

Despite my initial distrust of such devices I can see situations where the SpyderLensCal would exist of employ, particularly for longer lenses exterior.

Automation software

See my review of Reikan FoCal for software that can automate much of the aligning process for Nikon and Canon cameras that support aligning.

Hardware calibration

Much as I might similar the Moire technique, I know some people adopt an actual target.

It won't cost any more than (nor less we're afraid) merely will contribute towards the running costs of our site.

–00-00–

If you've found articles here of involvement, delight practice share them

We're an Amazon.com chapter, and so receive payment if you buy via Amazon The states

We're an Amazon.com affiliate, then receive payment if you buy via Amazon US

Source: https://www.northlight-images.co.uk/camera-af-microadjustment/

Posted by: monsourguideare.blogspot.com

Share this post